right now i am sitting in lucknow, india, and listening to my brother play me songs he’s been working on during the course of the last few months that he’s been so far away from me. it’s an amazing feeling to be able to once again hear his voice in person and be able to have spent the last week with him in this country he so loves. it is immediately obvious why he is so enamored with with india, as it has so many wonderful, beautiful and interesting things to offer. even the things that are arguably bad have lovely sides. before i left our buddy keith told me of his visit to brian and how he couldn’t wait until i got home and “understood” all of the things that make india so amazing and ridiculous. and i now do. cramming 12 people into a little vehicle half the size of a normal taxi, or seeing 4 people fly by on the same motorcycle. and it’s obviously not just vehicular, everything here is just by different rules. i wish i could fully articulate some of the things i’ve seen and felt here, but really it’s not that easy. and my brain is not totally in it right now, as i’m rather happy hanging with my brother. but, here are some thoughts:
when i first pulled into delhi and saw the broken roads, stray dogs, barefoot people, cycle rickshaws and all sorts of things that pointed towards poverty, i turned to my brother and asked him if people here are happy. it was a bit of a ridiculous question to ask but between jetlag and seeing so much at once i felt it must be a rough and perhaps miserable existence. since then i’ve greatly changed my way of thinking. i’ve observed so often how people can turn so quickly from seemingly mean to ultra friendly, seen how incredibly helpful and kind people can be, how willing they are to offer up themselves and what they have with no ill intentions. it’s really quite beautiful and i constantly marvel at it. sure, there is much less sense of personal space, of privacy, but those things don’t really matter. and yea, people are willing to try to rip you off when they can, but when you refuse their price and ask where something better is, they give you directions with a smile. it’s amazing and constantly beautiful.
we spent the first few days in delhi visiting all kinds of beautiful sights which greatly opposed the hustle and bustle of the city just beyond their walls and found ourselves jumping between peace and seeming chaos. somehow, though, the chaos is beautifully organized. i’m not sure how it’s done, but it is. autorickshaw drivers fly through the city squeezing into spots i swore a million times didn’t exist. in the states everyone would have crashed a thousand times a second, but in india, or at least delhi, it’s a smooth (albiet horn ridden) journey flowing through everything.
after delhi we took a night train (think comfortable cattle car) to haridwar and washed our feet in the ganga (ganges river) with thousands of other people there to celebrate, bathe and worship. it was a really interesting and beautiful site to see so many people so committed. from haridwar we took an auto (a tiny cycle/car filled with 12 people) 45 minutes to rishikesh where we eventually walked across a foot bridge to (fairly) peaceful area that allowed brian and i to relax. i took a walk with a new australian friend to a waterfall and along the ganga. i explored a bit of the somewhat overly tourist area myself but then brian and i headed over to the less touristy area that eventually led to the ashram that the beatles came to in 1968. after a bribe of about $1 we were let inside the gate by the guard who is set to protect the now abandoned grounds. after walking around i now more than ever want to see the beatles anthology again, as well as get my writing bum in gear.
we left rishikesh yesterday to come to lucknow, where brian studies. it’s really been an amazing trip, and even though we were tired, as we got in from our overnight train at 8 am, brian and i hung out with his roommates and eventually went to play colors for holi. holi is part of the reason that people gathered to wash in the ganga, from what i can understand, and partially marks the beginning of spring, among other things. today people all over the city were riding around and rubbing beautiful, bright colored powders on each others faces, heads and clothing, hugging, shaking hands and wishing “happy holi!” it was an amazing way to spend the morning and i came back covered in color and smiles. after a nice shower and change of clothes we walked around looking for food but almost nothing was open, so we got a quick snack at one place and then returned to rest and play some music. eventually restaurants opened up and we had a nice meal and now, after so many wonderful days, i was able to sit and write something short. there is not even the beginning of describing how things are, but hopefully in the coming days i will revisit and dig deeper. until then, i hope you’re amazing. get awesome!